Located in Butte, MT, Headframe Spirits takes their history and mission seriously. Playing on the strong past of mining in the Butte region, Headframe draws its name from ‘headframe’ devices that lowered miners down into the earth. Beginning operations in 2010 and opening the tasting room in 2012, Headframe became a Certified B Corporation in 2017. Beyond the traditional operations of distilling and selling their products, Headframe also runs a still manufacturing and consulting arm. They claim to have developed a more efficient still that brings the process into the 21st century. All great, but lets look at their actual product with the Headframe Spirits Kelley Single Malt Review.

Kelley Single Malt contains a mash bill of 100% malted barley, as required for an American Single Malt. Origin of the barley is not listed on the bottle or website, nor is the age statement. Finished in new and used oak and sherry barrels, Kelley chimes in at 86 proof (43% ABV). Aside from claiming to be inspired by the Irish immigrants that worked in the mines, that’s all the information to be found for this single malt. Time to get to work with this one!

Bottle and Appearance

Typically the least controversial aspect of the Whiskey Rising review, the bottle for Kelley Single Malt certainly raises some unanswered questions. It resembles an ice tea container or old milk jug more than a whiskey bottle. In fact, the whiskey itself imitates Snapple coloring in the bottle. Despite this being an American Single Malt, I suspected this to be a flavored liqueur on the shelf at first glance and nearly moved on. While reasons for this particular bottle may exist, no information is forthcoming. In the glass, it produces a thin coating with skinny, fast legs…and still looks like iced tea.

Nose

After finally deciding to move on from the perplexities of the bottle, this whiskey gets real as malt jumps out as soon as the top is removed. Lifting the glass to the nose causes a slight drying, but very piercing effect. While unable to mistake this for anything other than a single malt, notes of plum and honey show up initially. A slight bitterness in the form of a granny smith apple then emerges. Finally, the nose comes to imitate a soft white zinfandel. Requiring almost no work, the nose easily and pleasantly reveals itself.

Palate

Moving along to the palate, the whiskey enters the mouth producing an astringent effect and medium degree of alcohol burn. The honey and granny smith apple from the nose carry over, and an intertwined vanilla surfaces. In the middle, a powerful cinnamon spice pops out that threatens to derail the project. Recovering slightly, a nutty mixture of oats and malt that remain ever present throughout finally reach their peak once the other tones work themselves out. Decent palate overall with layering and complexity, only slightly shadowed by an unexpected burn for an 86 proof whiskey and the startling burst of cinnamon.

Finish

Moving along to the finish, oak notes begin to resonate and underlie the process. Even so, a distinct peanut butter chocolate cup sensation unfolds and effectively builds to a climax prior to attaining a steady state. This lingers for a while, and then everything goes out in a returning mild burn.

Drinkability

Splashing water in Kelley Single Malt effectively neutralizes the burn, and allows the fruitier sweetness aspects to gain more prominence. This whiskey, while paying respects to blue collar miners, feels right wearing a derby hat on a riverboat casino trying its hand at blackjack. While playing it cool and sophisticated generally, eventually flipping the blackjack table over may be unavoidable.

Food Pairing

In keeping with the aims of this whiskey, pair with a hearty and classic meal. Potatoes, cabbage and corned beef work with Kelley Single Malt, and even aligns with their Irish immigrant homage.

Facial Hair Rating

Kelley Single Malt receives the Handlebar facial hair rating. Manifesting a classic and easy feel with a certain level of flair, the whiskey stands out in many good and upstanding ways. On the other hand, a feisty yet playful belligerence lurks beneath the surface. Most likely, a revolver will be found hidden in an ankle holster.

Overall

To conclude the Headframe Spirits Kelley Single Malt review, don’t judge a book by its cover. The bottle really detracts from the experience and seems out of place given the quality of the juice inside. While I didn’t knock down its final grade as a result of the outward appearance, I certainly considered it. The whiskey itself is worthy of pouring for aficionados and discussing a new American Single Malt on the scene. The bottle, however, is more worthy of drinking iced tea after doing yard work. Despite the bottle, Kelley Single Malt does work overall. The experience resembles a solid American Single Malt expression, and overcomes a burn that likely results from a quick, unstated aging process. The cinammon burst threatens to throw it off, but ultimately relents. Finally, while I don’t normally discuss pricing, the bottle sold for $34. For an American Single Malt of this quality, that isn’t too bad!

Final Grade: B

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