Booker’s Bourbon, a holding of Beam Suntory, originates from the Jim Beam family itself. The brand began in the late 1980’s founded by Booker Noe. Booker, distiller emeritus and grandson of Jim Beam himself, hand-select bottled bourbon straight from the barrel. These ultimately found their way as gifts to friends and family. Eventually, Booker went public in 1988 with a 1,000 case release. Now, Booker’s releases a few batches each year designated by a moniker hinting at an underlying story related to the particular batch. Today, we look at the third release of 2020 with the Booker’s 2020-03 “Pigskin Batch” Bourbon review.

Though not explicitly stated, Booker’s is essentially a high-end version of Jim Beam. This implies the same mash bill and process. However, it does differ in that each batch does not have a set aging (aside from between 6 and 8 years). Additionally, each batch contains slight deviations on alcohol volume. These nuances ultimately derive from Booker’s uncut and unfiltered nature, and emphasis on taste driving completion as opposed to timeline. In the case of 2020-03, Booker’s delivers a (gulp) 127.3 proof (63.65% ABV) and carries an age statement of 6 years, 7 months and 7 days. With the background out of the way, let’s toss this pigskin around!

Bottle and Appearance

In the bottle, Booker’s exudes a deep and powerful mahogany with a haze likely due to its unfiltered nature. In the glass, it lightens to an effervescent cherry wood color. Giving it a swirl produces a syrupy coating that forms wax-like layered legs. Very nice. The script on the bottle frankly feels gimmicky, but it comes in a box so you know it’s serious stuff! Inside the box is a ticket describing the bourbon in depth, including background story and tasting notes. The effort feels above and beyond what a storied whiskey needs to do. However, the humility and touch are much appreciated.

Nose

On the nose, Booker’s creates a lighter than expected drying nature given the proof. Notes of red cherry lead up front with a moderate sweetness. Wood forms a prevalent force within as both sandalwood and oak vie for acknowledgment. Oiled leather pops through and lends an air of storied depth to this bourbon. Then port wine arouses truly providing a sense of romantic classicism. Finally, a bit of sawdust finishes off the experience allowing for a bit of levity. Though perhaps not quite mystical, the nose’s effect nevertheless provides a relaxing satisfaction bordering on serenity.

Palate

Moving into the mouth, the proof now becomes apparent as a searing and heating effect begins. Booker’s furnishes an oily texture and a chewy mouthful – a voluptuous body to be certain. Perhaps as a result of the body, fried bacon initially jumps out. This moves into a pumpkin spice that eventually yields to a caramel corn. Throughout the palate, oak wood plays in the background eventually gaining prominence. For Whiskey Rising reviews, the nose, palate and finish are done neat. In this setting, Booker’s lacks the ability to further unpack its flavors despite the sensation that more lurk beyond. Additionally given the proof, it proffers a burning and stinging sensation. Despite this, the allure of the profile does beckon the imbiber forward.

Finish

On the finish, the intensity of the bourbon somewhat subsides. Initially the sweetness returns with hints of clover honey. The dominate wood nature of this bourbon continues here as well with a wood-like resin. Maintaining the good old boys club appeal of this whiskey, cigar smoke wafts through. The oily body persists from the palate and ultimately combines for a rum-like taste. The finish wraps up nicely and lessens in fierceness from the palate.

Drinkability

Not going to lie – drinking this one neat lands roughly. The quality certainly comes through nonetheless. However, it’s tough to get through the intense burn for lack of a better way to spin it. On ice, though, a whole new world blooms before our very eyes. The water unlocks the hidebound flavors and allows them to burst through. The sweetness really gains prominence as does a cinnamon profile. Despite the ice/water, Booker’s maintains a level of gritty yet oily texture and becomes divine. Drink this one in a fancy steakhouse – just make sure it’s on the rocks and you’re not driving.

Food Pairing

No reason to avoid the obvious – dial up a ribeye steak seared directly over flames to go with Booker’s. Leave it red enough in the middle to get the juices truly flowing.

Facial Hair Rating

Booker’s Bourbon receives the Verdi Facial Hair Rating. With both old school lumberjack and hipster credentials, Verdi straddles different worlds with ease. Rustic, strong and tough, yet chic, stylish and modern – Verdi captures a broad range of possibilities and distills them down to an identifiable and accessible style. Despite the rave reviews, however, some may be turned off and frankly it isn’t easy to achieve requiring vision, patience and diligence.

Overall

To conclude the Booker’s 2020-03 “Pigskin Batch” Bourbon review – an obvious classic with fangs. It shouldn’t surprise anyone going into it, but given Booker’s proof it simply isn’t viable for drinking it neat. However, on ice it is simply amazing. The exquisite body captures and displays a timeless bourbon profile with interesting surprises along the road. The bourbon presents depth and complexity, and seemingly allows the drinker to fall deeper and deeper into the web trying to uncover all of its mystery. It’s not cheap at $90, but I love it at $75. As nearly perfect as it is, I struggle with dinging it for anything. However, at the end of the day a whiskey that isn’t drinkable neat feels like it should receive a one notch downgrade. That’s merely a technicality though as Booker’s allows for endless discovery on a hidden and enchanting woodland trail.

Final Grade: A

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